For me the concept of cooking vegetarian dishes to simulate other meat dishes is totally unacceptable, because it implies a certain superiority of the latter, so that vegetarians have to imitate them to be palatable. I come from a culture where people sometimes are vegetarian by necessity, not by choice. In fact, in many regions where harsh economic conditions prevail, meat becomes a rare commodity, due mainly to high prices. So people use their ingenuity to create delicious dishes and meals based on what they have on hand, and try to make these cheap meals as nutritious as possible. In such communities, even "rich" people eat the same dishes, which, with time, become traditional dishes. I grew up eating and loving some of these vegetarian dishes based mainly on beans. In Egypt, the main bean used is Fava bean. People eat it green, fresh, dried and cooked, split, peeled and cooked..and by cooked here I mean prepared a thousand different ways! But I have to warn you: to produce something delicious from such a simple ingredient requires one main thing: a lot of work! The other day, to celebrate Sham El-Nessim, I decided to make Falafel and another dish, a kind of dip or spread, Boussara, from scratch. So I opened the kitchen door, positioned myself to be in full sun exposure, and started to work. It took me exactly 3 hours 15 to do the job, just as my grandmother used to do it, except that I used an electric food grinder instead on her manual grinder. At the end, when I started cleaning my hands with the back of my knife, I realized " Oh my God, I'm turning into my grandma!!" But in the kitchen that's not too bad!
REAL EGYPTIAN FALAFEL
You may have had commercial falafel before, the ones we find in most Mediterranean stores or restaurants. But these are rarely Egyptian falafel, because other countries of the region make falafel with chick peas and don't add any greenery to it. Once you've tried the real falafel, you'll never come near the other ones. But again I have to warn you, it's very labor intensive, so you have to be comfortable in your working space, find a place where you can sit down while working, because once you decide to do it you'd better make a big batch, freeze some of it and use it when you need it. There is no point of making this mess every time you want to have some falafel, and they keep so well in the freezer. You'll need:
10 cups of split fava beans (2 1/2 kg = 5.6 lbs)
3 large leeks
1 1/2 bunches of each: parsley, dill and cilantro
2 bunches scallions
1 medium head of garlic
The night before, pick the beans, rinse them several times and keep them covered with water overnight. Don't worry if some of the beans have the peel on, when they are soaked, it will be easy to remove it. Now that we are ready for work, drain the beans and check for those who still have the peel and remove it. Work the beans in your food grinder using the larger attachment (they usually have 2 one fine and the other a bit larger. If you don't have a grinder, I think the food processor will work. The first time I made falafel I used a food processor, but the one I have now is small and didn't work properly with the beans). Clean the leeks by cutting the roots first: if they have a lot of dirt, as they do sometimes, cut them lengthwise then in half moons. We'll need the white parts and the tender green parts. Discard the tough green ends. Rinse the leeks several times until the water runs clear and you have no more sand or dirt in them. Rinse all the other herbs, cut them and add them to the leeks. For the scallions you'll need also the white parts and some of the green. Peel the garlic, chop it and add it to your herbs. Now work all the herbs through the food grinder, with the same attachment. When they are all chopped, mix them with the ground beans, and give the whole thing another go in the grinder. You may use the finer attachment, but if you find that this will be hard on you, the larger one will be fine. Now you have the base of the falafel. Divide the amount that you have into smaller amounts and put them in freezer bags (I use 1 qt bags), freeze them. Make sure that you have reserved some of it for your next day. So, to the falafel you are going to cook add 1 tsp baking powder, 1 tsp dried coriander and salt and pepper to taste. You can also add 1 egg to better hold everything together. You can keep it refrigerated overnight or fry it immediately. To form the falafel take an amount about the size of a ping pong ball, work it between your hands and flatten it a bit to make a shape of a disc. Fry the falafel in hot vegetable oil. Don't crowd your pan. They will not need much to cook, once they become golden on one side, turn them once and keep them until they become golden brown. When you'll bite into them you'll be amazed at the explosion of flavors in your mouth, and the bright green inside of the falafel.
Most of all, don't forget to keep aside some of the ingredients for the next dish.
BOUSSARA
This is a dish you can serve as a meal or as a dip if you have company. The ingredients are the same as the falafel, but it's prepared in a totally different way. It's very nutritious, with the beans and all the herbs it contains and it is not fried. I always make it when I'm making falafel, because I already have the ingredients at hand. But of course it can be done on its own, and you'll have to make only what you need. You'll need:
This is a dish you can serve as a meal or as a dip if you have company. The ingredients are the same as the falafel, but it's prepared in a totally different way. It's very nutritious, with the beans and all the herbs it contains and it is not fried. I always make it when I'm making falafel, because I already have the ingredients at hand. But of course it can be done on its own, and you'll have to make only what you need. You'll need:
3 cups split fava beans soaked (put them aside before you grind the falafel)
1 cup cleaned leeks
1 1/2 cups mixed herbs (parsley, dill, cilantro) chopped
1 onion sliced
5 garlic cloves
1 tbsp coriander
1 tsp dry mint leaves
1 tbsp oil
Salt and pepper to taste.
In a 5 qt pot barely cover the beans with water (it should be 1/2 inch over the beans, not more) and cook them over medium high heat. Keep an eye on them, if a white foam forms and comes to the surface, remove it with a big spoon. Let cook while you prepare the herbs, if you did not do it already for the falafel. When the beans are almost done add the herbs and keep cooking, adding water little by little and stirring. We don't want to add too much water from the start or you will not get the right consistency. When the beans are cooked, you'll have a chunky mash of beans and herbs, remove from heat and let stand for a while until you're able to work them in a blender. Do so in batches to obtain a greenish smooth mash. Return to the pot. Cut the onion in half and then in medium slices. In a nonstick skillet, cook the onion slices in oil until caramelized (about 15 minutes). Meanwhile keep the pot cooking on very low heat, uncovered. Remove the onion slices from the skillet, making sure that you reserve the oil in the skillet. Crush the garlic into the skillet, add coriander and salt and pepper. Cook until browned and then pour it into the pot. Stir to mix. Take the dried mint leaves into the palms of your hands and crush them over the pot. Make sure that you keep the leftover stems in your hands and discard them. Stir and adjust seasoning. You'll notice that the pot is bubbling slightly and that its color has turned to a brighter green. Let it bubble for a while (3 to 4 minutes) and then remove from heat. Pour the boussara in a shallow serving dish: it should be about 3/4 inch high maximum. You can serve it in individual dishes, always making sure that it's 1/2 to 3/4 inches only. Let it cool, and it will have the consistency of a cooked custard when it settles. Sprinkle with the caramelized onion slices, refrigerate. Before you serve it take it out of the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature. Serve with toasted pita triangles : I cut the pita bread in half, then in half again and again to get 8 triangles. Then I separate the top from the bottom, put them on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes.