This is the last test for the new electronic controls of the oven: we're broiling a fish. This could be the easiest way for you to cook a fish, whole. I know that many of you never cook fish at home, let alone a whole fish, head and tail and everything. There is a myth that cooking fish will stink your house, and you may think it's yucky, but really it isn't. It is much simpler than you think, or than you've been told. And believe me once you've tried my way, you'll always like to have fish at home. You just have to know how to buy a good fresh fish, ask the fish monger to clean it for you and you're good to go. You've probably heard many pointers about how to choose a fish, but I'll say it again: the first thing to look for is smell. If a fish smells, stay away from it. Better yet: if the store smells, get out immediately and look for another one. It is not fresh. Other signs to look for: the eyes. They should be clear, not cloudy. The flesh of the fish should immediately bounce back when you put pressure on it with a finger, and finally the gills should be vivid red. Now that we know how to choose a good fresh fish, you just have to know that for this recipe you should get one with white flesh. I chose a red snapper, but a whole tilapia or a mullet can do. The main thing is that you should get a fish at least 12 to 13 inch long. Bigger would be fine too, it will serve more people.
BLACKENED WHOLE FISH
This is a traditional Egyptian recipe for grilled fish. In the old days, when ovens could not be found in every kitchen, they used to prepare it and send it to the bakery around the corner to be cooked there. Then it became a habit: today this dish is mainly a take out one. You go to the market, choose the fish and ask the store to broil it for you. They have everything that you need for that: the seasoning, the fresh herbs, the onion and garlic. You can even get side dishes, mainly fish rice and salads. In New York, I found some Egyptian restaurants who serve this kind of fish, but I love to prepare it at home: I like to be in control of the spices. You'll need:
1 whole red snapper, about 13 inches long
1/2 small onion
2 to 3 garlic cloves
1/2 small bunch each: parsley and dill
Juice of 1 lime
1 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp each: coriander and celery salt
Salt and pepper to taste
Bran, about 3 tbsp
Ask the fish monger to clean only the inside of the fish. Cut the fins, but leave the scales, they will protect the skin from burning. Sprinkle some salt and pepper inside and out the fish, drizzle some lime juice (about half a lime) and let stand. In the small chop chop process the onion, garlic and herbs until very finely chopped. Transfer the mixture to a small dish, add the spices, salt and pepper and the juice of the other half of the lime. Mix. Fill the cavity of the fish with the mixture. If the fish is big, you can make a cut in the thickest part of the flesh, and insert some of the mixture in it. If it is really huge, make a long cut along the spine and put some of the mixture in it too. This way you'll infuse the whole fish with the spices. Let stand until your broiler comes to the right temperature (I set it on high). Place a sheet of aluminum foil on the broiler pan, and put the fish over it. Cover the fish with bran. Pat it down to make sure that it sticks to the skin.
Broil for 5 minutes. Don't panic when you find that the fish is completely black, it's the bran. Carefully turn the fish to the other side. Cover with bran and broil again for another five minutes. If you have a bigger fish, give it more time. The biggest fish I made took 10 to 12 minutes for the first side and 10 max for the second. I like to serve it on its foil: this way you can remove the skin, serve the flesh and get all the skin and bones in the foil and into the garbage. No mess.
FRIED WHOLE FISH
It's also a tradition when you serve fish to have grilled and fried. So I got another 2 whole red snappers, but asked the fish monger to clean them inside and out. And since I was cooking both of them the same day, I prepared the ingredients together. This time get a smaller fish, but not too small, it will have more bones than meat. You'll need:
2 red snappers, whole, cleaned and gutted
3 garlic cloves
1 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp each: coriander and celery salt
Salt and pepper
Lime juice
Flour and bread crumbs (2 to 1)
Oil for frying
Sprinkle some salt and pepper inside and out the fish, and drizzle some lime juice. Set aside.
Finely chop the garlic, add the spices and salt and pepper to it and mix. Add some drops of lime juice. Fill the cavity with the mixture, make a slit in the thickest part of the fish and fill it with the spice mixture. Mix 2 tbsp of flour with one tbsp bread crumbs, salt and pepper and spread on a shallow dish. Dip the fish in the mixture on both sides, pressing down to make sure that it sticks to the skin. Fry in vegetable oil until golden brown on both sides. Remove to a dish lined with paper towels, then serve with a tahini salad.
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